The neighborhood of Monti benefits - or suffers, depending on your point of view - from its location: squished between the chain store shopping of via Nazionale and the magnificent ruins of the Fori Imperiali and the Coliseum. Tourists - and many Romans for that matter - flock to its surrounding areas never realizing the treasures that lie in between. To make matters worse, the neighborhood is actually “sunken”, sitting a few meters below street level, hidden from plain view.

As a result, Monti, has maintained it’s original charm and relative calm. It’s one of the last real neighborhoods of Rome where artisans can still run a workshop and make the monthly rent. The neighborhood’s only claim to fame until recently was that it was home to the “red light district” from the height of the Roman Empire up to the early 20th century. It was known as the suburra, or underground city, and you wouldn’t have been caught dead there after dark unless you were working or being worked.

Today, by contrast, Monti is home to some of Rome’s most well heeled denizens and its best shopping. The small, cobble stoned streets are paved with delightful boutiques selling a surprising mix of high-end clothing, shoes, accessories and home furnishings. It is not the place to go when looking for a great bar or restaurant. The pickings are slim and not particularly noteworthy with one or two exceptions (see below).  But if you are in the market for the perfect pair of cherry red patent leather pumps, or a funky dress by an up-and-coming designer, or a one-off silver ring, or a leather handbag with silk, fuchsia-colored lining, Monti is your place.

In the past few years a pack of daring young entrepreneurs have opened several places of note. Almost all of them are friends and they will just as soon sell you something as send you to their friend’s shop down the road. It makes for a relaxed, almost small-town atmosphere. And as shop owners pay attention not to stock the same merchandise, an afternoon of shopping in Monti will consist of one discovery after another. Here below is a line up of the areas best and instructions on how to get there.

Shopping:

 

Super (via Leonina, 42) an all-white shopping wonderland on three floors. Go for ahead of the curve, almost futuristic fashions for both men and women; amazing shoes, retro (50s, 60s, 70s) furniture and furnishings; beauty products; and, jewelry.

Escat (via dell’Angeletto, 10) a teeny shop packed (tastefully) with fun and original gifts such as fine to junk jewelry, wool scarves, vases, home perfumes and a few random but luxurious pieces of women’s knitwear.

LOL (Piazza degli Zingari, 11) for fine, classic women’s fashion in extraordinary fabrics. Also carries innovative silver jewelry and must-have totes. Don’t miss the small back room off main showroom.

DOP (via Urbana, 25) is only one month old. As the new kid on the black it has dubbed itself, a “concept store”. On two levels has an amazing selection of coats and bags by a German designer who sews them exclusively for shop. Downstairs you will find the greatest collection of antique, silk kimonos within the Eternal City. Also have great cashmere scarves and sweaters, accessories (earrings, bracelets and belts) and home furnishings.

B (Piazza Madonna dei Monti, 1) used to carry women’s clothing only in black; (thankfully) they have recently introduced white. You’ll find high-end coats, dresses and skirts, cotton separates, big jewelry and the odd home furnishing thrown in.

Contesta Rock Hair Store (via degli Zingari, 10) sells sexy, irreverent fashion and bold accessories.

244 Parnisperna via (via Panisperna, 244) regularly rotates the latest European design talent on sale. Among usual women’s fashion suspects you will find plenty of shoes (especially precarious looking high heels).

Pellegrino (via dei Serpenti, 153) is famous for the family of tailors who make bespoke shirts to measure and taste. You chose your fabric, color, cut and look and they bring it to life. Rumor has it that De Niro is a client.  

Tina Sondergaard (Via del Boschetto, 1/d ) is a Danish designer who makes women’s fashion staples to measure, in delicious fabrics, at a reasonable price. She also carries a few retro pieces to buy off-the-rack.

Eat & Drink:

Libreria Caffe Bohèmien (via degli Zingari, 36) has nailed the wine bar, coffee shop, bookstore combination. Imagine small tables strewn in a small but inviting rooms lined with bookshelves and walls plastered with paintings, photographs, old records and posters. Brunch served (for homesick Americans, one supposes). Gay friendly (they make a point of saying) and open until 2 AM.

F.I.S.H.  (via dei Serpenti, 16) serves sushi and is all the rage at the moment. Best to call ahead and reserve (06.4782.4962).

Maharajah (via dei Serpenti, 124) was once the best Indian restaurant in Rome; it is, for sure, the most expensive. But you can count on Maharajah for good curries, authentic atmosphere and friendly wait staff.

Getting there: The easiest way to get to Monti is on the Metro. Take Line B to the Cavour Station. You come out on via Cavour. Walk down the curved stone stairs and you are in the heart of the old underground city. Alternatively you can take any of the buses that go to Termini - the main train station - traveling along via Cavour, among them the 75 and the 84. A taxi from the Historic Center will cost you between 7- 10 euros.