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ZAMBIA
Hear The Sounds
Of Africa When
The Sun Sets

By Neli Lalanne 
 
Africa evoked mystery and adventure, I would picture it as a continent where wilderness was predominant and animals moved about freely on uncharted territory.  The birth place of Tarzan… Africa, the motherland where it all started. While en route to Zambia home of the Zambezi river, where the Nile actually begins, I frowned trying to recall (unsuccessfully) where exactly the remains of Lucy were found.   People who had traveled there almost all spoke about the deep sense of feeling overwhelmed upon landing. They seemingly all at some point bent down to kiss the ground in appreciation for finally stepping foot on the continent.  I wondered if the same uncontrollable urge would take over me once my 15 hr flight reached its destination.  I might have had difficulty pinpointing where Lucy’s remains were discovered but I had done my homework on Zambia and was highly eager to see if the Victoria Falls lived up to the hype; Turns out the world’s biggest waterfall surpassed expectations.
    
One element that, in case you forgot where you were would refresh your memory was the heat.  A cloak of warmth envelops you the minute you arrive as if to hint that from this point on you are on friendly grounds.  Lusaka, the capital where about 2 million inhabitants resides, is the heart of Zambia, perhaps chaotic but pulsating with life, vibrant with activity and radiating energy inherent to Africa. When you travel on the way there, it is almost impossible to not repeat to yourself ‘oh dear, I am in Africa!’; trees to the left and right of the road, an occasional unsupervised goat walking around calmly, followed by a couple roosters who seem trained to look left then right prior to crossing the street all add to the authenticity of the place.  In Lusaka, mothers with their child strapped on their backs buzz about the market place either selling or buying products.

A cab driver named Zulu explained that everything could be found in Lusaka, from the Lusaka museum to arts and crafts villages where inhabitants’ hand made jewelry are guaranteed to raise compliments any part of the world you are in. He also noted that 3 languages were mainly spoken in Lusaka, English and 2 dialects, ‘Bimba’ being one of them. The same cab driver acting as tourist guide sang praises of a nature park where exotic flowers blossomed all year long while visitors experienced their first crush on Africa.  ‘Munda Wanga’ park was indeed amazing, a place where new couples found beauty to match their debuting passion. However, the adjacent animal park is what made me want to (following the path of those before me) bend down and kiss the ground.  Lions, elephants, zebras and even bush-pigs separated from curious human eyes by only a thin, very thin wire fence.  Just in case our tour guide (who insisted that the animals were no threat) was wrong in his assessment that day (the wire fence was very thin…and overconfidently low) I kept what I estimated was a safe distance while snapping shots and finding names for the cast of the Lion King which apparently after shooting a major motion picture had all found refuge in Zambia.

The Victoria Falls for different reasons caused a similar surge of emotions.  Nature at its best, magnificent, powerful, looking up and witnessing this torrent of water pouring down, is a humbling experience. ‘Vicky’ Falls like some foreigners would call it, was a sight to behold, one that the locals themselves seemed still amazed to see. Speaking of the locals, they without a doubt made up the core of Zambia’s charm; friendly, smiling, helpful, seemingly unaffected by the difficulties of their everyday life.  Women wearing colorful gears, adolescents initiated into the world of commerce early, selling earrings to tourists, men still finding a way to laugh while pushing or sometime carrying heavy sacks of produce to sell at the market place, all of them essential elements to the spicy mix that is Zambia. And at night time when the market place clears up and individuals retreat to where they call home or to the nearest bar to unwind, leaving Lusaka somewhat quiet, nature continues to breathe, in the form of the wind blowing, tree leaves touching, crickets chirping, or a cat meowing in the distance. Around that time of day, when the sun, a brazen deep orange flame, dies off behind the horizon, if you listen carefully you can hear the sounds of Africa.