February 2007 

 

By Carol Sorgen

If you’re a fellow bookaholic, you’ll be right at home in Paris. This is a city of readers—and where you find readers, you find bookstores. Needless to say, if you read French, you’ll have more shops to visit, but there are plenty of English-only or multi-language bookstores to keep you from that dreaded possibility—not having enough to read! (One caveat though—English-language paperbacks in Paris are expensive; as a rule, I skip the books I can buy at my local Barnes & Noble in favor of ones that aren’t sold in the US—for a number of years, for example, Donna Leon’s popular mysteries set in Venice were not published in the States and I would stock up on them when I was in Europe, where she is very popular.)

It’s not surprising that Paris, being the style capital of the world, has a number of bookstores that specialize in art and design. Many of these sell books in several languages, including English; among my favorites are Librairie 7L (7, rue de Lille, Metro: Saint Germain des Pres or Rue du Bac,) Taschen (2, rue de Buci, Metro: Odeon), and Assouline (35, rue Bonaparte, Metro: Saint Germain des Pres).

Librairie 7L is the creation of designer Karl Lagerfeld and is as stylish as his fashions. In fact, the store specializes in books on fashion, as well as on architecture, photography, design, and art. Taschen, many of whose books can be found in the States (so think twice before loading up your suitcase with some of their gorgeous but oh-so-heavy art books), is dedicated to books on—in addition to art—design, photography, travel, architecture, even erotica. At Assouline (whose books are also sold in the US), you can find similarly gorgeous books on art, design, photography, religion, and style, as well as unique gifts such as elegant notebooks, whimsical candles, vases, and travel accessories.

If you’re in the mood for a good read, rather than a glossy coffee-table tome, you can spend hours browsing your way through the city. For starters, don’t forget about  les bouquinistes, the green stalls lining the banks of the Seine filled with books and—increasingly—kitschy souvenirs. Even if you don’t find anything to read, an afternoon stroll taking in this quintessentially Parisian streetscape is a pleasant way to pass a few hours.

On the Right Bank, you’ll find the venerable W.H. Smith (248, rue de Rivoli, Metro: Concorde). Here you can pore through two floors of American and British books, newspapers, and an extensive array of magazines. When you leave Smith’s, turn left and walk along the rue de Rivoli until you get to Galignani (224, rue de Rivoli). Lined with mahogany bookshelves, this shop with a bygone feel to it specializes in art, design, and literature in French and English. On the second floor there is a good selection of paperback novels and mysteries. (After you finish at Galignani, take your purchases next door and treat yourself to a chocolat africain at the famous Angelina’s. This hot chocolate, served with an accompanying dish of thick whipped cream, is famous throughout Paris.)

Also on the Right Bank is Brentano’s (38, avenue de l’Opera, Metro: Opera or Pyramides). This US-founded bookseller has been an English-language staple in Paris since 1895 and sponsors a number of book-related events at the store.

Cross back over the Seine to the Left Bank and you’ll be rewarded with yet more librairies (a note here: in French, the word for bookstore is librairie, while the word for library is bibliotheque). One of my favorite bookshop haunts is the small but interestingly stocked Village Voice (6, rue Princesse, Metro: Mabillon).  English-language fiction, nonfiction, poetry, and literary magazines are available here, and the shop hosts numerous author readings/discussions, which is a nice way to spend an evening and meet some new friends. (After my requisite stop at Village Voice, I usually have dinner next door at Coffee Parisien, an American-style café but populated primarily by the French; you can get anything from a familiar hamburger and milkshake if you’re homesick to a simple but delicious grilled salmon. Walk up to Blvd. St. Germain after dinner and cap off the evening with a crepe from the stall by Saint Germain des Pres.)

Lovers of Canadian literature will want to visit the Abbey Bookshop (29, rue de la Parchmenterie, Metro: St. Michel or Cluny La Sorbonne) to sift through the large selection of second-hand Canadian, British, and North American books. Free coffee is available here too. Around the corner from the Abbey is the famous Shakespeare & Co. (37, rue de la Bucherie, Metro: Maubert-Mutualite or St. Michel-Notre Dame). This legendary shop is not located at the site of the original, but it still brings in would-be writers, students, and those looking to step back into a Parisian yesteryear. The warren of rooms and nooks are crammed from floor to ceiling with second-hand books; some new books are available too. Another cozy second-hand shop with English-language books in all genres is Tea and Tattered Pages (24, rue Mayet, Metro:Duroc). Browse through your selections while enjoying a snack at the small café in back of the shop.

One of my favorite things about Paris is that there are bookstores everywhere you turn and I’m always looking for new ones to visit on my travels…but these continue to be my favorites and I daresay they’ll serve you well also.

Happy reading!