Australia may have gotten off to a dubious culinary start by being colonized by the British, but over the last two centuries waves of immigrants have transformed Oz into one of the world’s most exciting places to eat.  This is especially true of Sydney where Italians, Lebanese, Thais and others have broadened the nation’s palate while paradoxically the original British settlers kept their preference for French fine cuisine, giving birth to Sydney’s bistro scene.

The only connection left between an Australian bistro and its Parisian counterpart is in the emphasis upon providing quality dishes in unpretentious informal dining rooms.   Sydney’s bistros are often attached to a pub, and while they are often an afterthought, added to lure extra punters into the drinking premises this is not true of The Grand National, a classic neighborhood bar which underwent a transformation several years ago to turn itself into a two room affair with the restaurant taking the larger space.

Food at ‘the nash’ is contemporary Australian, quality local ingredients presented in innovative combinations.  Starters are elaborate affairs and priced to match, typical offerings include Thirlmere spatchcock served two ways with white bean cassoulet and tomato fennel butter ($19) or blue swimmer crab risotto with chilli, oregano and Parmesan oil ($19).  Both dishes were excellent, generously portioned and gorgeously presented.  

In contrast to the appetizers, main courses are robust and relatively straightforward in their execution, well sourced local ingredients are given classic bistro treatment in dishes like pan fried calves liver with pomme puree, spring onions and bacon ($26).  The liver was ordered rare and served rare, a rarity in itself even in these enlightened times.  The pan roasted blue eye cod with a hazelnut crust, cauliflower puree and bone marrow jus ($29) was a plate cleaner and worked well paired with a side of steamed broccolini, lemon almond crumble

Being a bar, the National owners understand their booze and the wine list is well thought out, though prices are definitely not in the budget range.  The National is best known for its dessert menu, you definitely don’t want to skip this course where the kitchen returns to dainty plating style of the starters for highly indulgent calorie bombs like burnt orange parfait with vanilla syrup and marshmallow ($15) or pear tatin with fried custard and rum and raisin ice cream ($16).

While the main room is definitely in the realm of special occasion dining for most of us, a more modest meal can be had in the bar where the kitchen shows they can turn out a great steak or pan roasted cod fillet for about big rooms price.  A great deal if you can tolerate the slightly smoky atmosphere.  Highly recommended.

161 Underwood Street
Paddington
Sydney, New South Wales
Tel.:  02 9363 4557