CAFÉ MOGADOR Moroccan Mainstay In NY's East Village By David McMannus New York's East Village is more than semi-gentrified nowadays, though pockets of existential nihilism and old school barrio still remain. With the changing times have come a multitude of eateries: a cluster of Japanese joints have turned the eastern fringe of Saint Marks Place into the city's Little Tokyo while nearby 6th Street offers an entire block of budget south Indian restaurants. If you ask locals the names of spots that they return to over and over again though, the chances are good that the twenty-something year old Café Mogador's name would come up frequently. That's no shabby trick for a restaurant that's been in the hood since Debbie Harry and Talking Heads were playing nearby CBGBs. Moroccan food was a new proposition in those days, however there must be easily half a dozen such establishments in the neighborhood by now, easily spotted by the sight of small groups sitting outside smoking oversized hookah pipes loaded with apple tobacco. Mogador has held on to its patrons by offering a menu centered around classic tagines and couscous dishes as well as a broad array of dips and appetizers at great prices. They aren't huge on reservations in Mogador, but try your luck on a quiet night and you might snag one of the outside tables where you can gaze upon the passing East Village freekazoids and their increasingly populous modern day nemesis: slumming young Wall Streeters. Once seated you will generally be approached by a server wielding an impressive platter of mixed Moroccan appetizers. Babaganoush, roasted eggplant with tahini, marinated beets, Hummus and other small plates are available for about $5 each, all are freshly prepared and many come to Mogador just to mix and match a range of these into a shared meal. For meat eaters a decent hangar steak can be had here, though they are cut in the French style which New Yorkers used to the dry aged delights of Peter Luger's might find somewhat chewy. Interesting specials are offered too, but most stick to the staples such as the lamb tagine with apricot and prunes ($15.50) or the mixed grill which consists of lamb, chicken, merguez and various vegetables grilled over charcoal and served over rice. The vegetables are beautifully blistered on the grill and the meats can be accented by the addition of fiery Moroccan hot sauce. Desserts are fairly standard, though the baclava is good, especially when accompanied by the monstrously sweet mint tea which comes served in an absurdly contrived pot that looks like it might have been pilfered from the props department of an Alladin movie. 101 Saint Marks Place New York, NY 10009 Tel: 212 677 2226 |
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