BERN’S STEAK HOUSE By Fred W. Wright Jr. Unimposing from the outside, Bern’s Steak House is home to some of the best aged steaks in the U.S. and the largest wine cellar of any restaurant in the world. And it’s in Tampa, Fla., of all places. Founded in 1956 by Bern Laxer, the restaurant has served celebrities of all measure and steaks of all sizes. Its signature steak is the Chateaubriand, broiled on a 30-foot charcoal grill that can hold up to 200 steaks at once. Bern’s steaks are cut to order for each guest, using three to four pounds of raw beef for every finished one pound that is served. This is typical of the attention to detail established by Bern and continued by his son, David, where innovation and originality are found in this house of steaks. Bern’s Steak House’s other claim to fame is its massive and pricey wine cellar. There are 90,000 bottles in immediate access at the restaurant – and that represents only about 15 percent of the restaurant’s inventory. In fact, the Bern’s wine list used to be the size of a telephone book, and so popular with customers that the list eventually had to be chained to the tables. The kitchen (tours are sometimes available for guests) goes beyond the typical stainless steel forest of ovens and sinks. There are three 1,200-gallon fish tanks holding up to 650 pounds of live fish, and the menu lobsters are flown in fresh three times a week from New England. The restaurant’s vegetables are grown in its own organic gardens; vintage coffee machines roast premium hand-sorted beans from around the world. The servers go through a long and rigorous training program, often required to work in the back kitchens and outside gardens for years while apprenticing. Another innovative touch Bern’s introduced a few years back is the Henry Waugh Dessert Room, a separate dining area upstairs where guests can choose from nearly 50 desserts, wines, ports, sherries and Madeiras in one of 18 private rooms. Ultimately, Bern’s reputation comes down to the consistency of its fine menu. Clearly, it’s not just a steak house. There are entrees for vegetarians and for those who like their rack of lamb. West Coast oysters are bagged fresh from their aquaculture beds and flown overnight to the kitchen. While the menu stays somewhat static, there are additions and well-tested experiments. The chef often adds to the traditional food. For example, the menu may reflect more than the current 14 steak sauces inspired by and created from the restaurant’s wine collection. Appetizers are both standard and creative. On the one hand, there is the tourist-popular Florida Jumbo Shrimp Scampi with tropical fruit macadamia fricassee with curry mango butter. On the other, Bern’s three soups (Vichysoisse, Maine Lobster bisque and French onion soup au grain) can be sampled like a flight of wines – a Tasting of Our Three Soups. Other entrees include charcoal-grilled chicken (either boneless and double-breasted, or semi-boneless, half-chicken) and Chicken Gert (marinated, organic breast of chicken dusted in flour and sesame seeds, lightly sauteed and served with wild rice pilaf, farm mizuna, shiitake mushrooms Brian and soy Armagnac sauce). Bern’s Steak House is open 363 days a year, closed only Christmas Day and Labor Day. For more information, go to its Web site: www.bernsteakhouse.com . |
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