PANZA AUTHORS A FEAST Puerto Rico’s Newest Culinary Star By Zain Deane Those familiar with Cervantes will remember Sancho Panza as Don Quixote’s squire and sidekick. There’s a new Panza in Puerto Rico, and this one bows to no other. The restaurant is part of the ultra-chic Chateau Cervantes, a luxury boutique hotel in Old San Juan. Panza the restaurant lovingly carries through the Don Quixote theme. The menu is organized into a preface (appetizers), essays (tapas), and contents (entrees), all tying together into an inspired culinary novel. And, while the dishes seem like old classics, a more in-depth examination of them will illuminate the subtle changes that make Panza so special. The time-tested lobster bisque, for instance, is flavored with coconut; the crunchy taquitos (small tacos) are made of taro and filled with twice-cooked duck. It’s these little touches of brilliance in the food that elevate it from simply a great place to eat to a gastronomic tour de force. The most well-read chapters in the menu include the “three verses of tuna” (a wonderful trio of a plantain-encrusted spicy tuna roll, a cut of tuna over black vinegar sherry-seared tomatoes, and a coffee-glazed filet) and the magnificent sable filet in a sesame miso broth over cauliflower truffle puree, with a tomato and porcini compote. The menu changes often, but I hope they keep this last creation, because it was the single best dish I’ve eaten in Puerto Rico. The dessert, of course, is the epilogue, and they are much more satisfying than many novel endings. If they still have it, ask for the multi-layered, multi-flavored, multi-textured caramelized pain perdu with pineapple marmalade, coconut sorbet, and candied pistachios. Everything is homemade, fresh, and wildly inventive. Panza is not the place to exercise your diet. It’s not the place to come for a light meal (although you can certainly do both here). And it’s not a budget dining option. This is a restaurant that deserves your palate’s full attention. Matching the menu is a pleasant and intimate space. Located in the lobby of the hotel, the restaurant’s high ceiling provides an airy, spacious environment. The cool marble tabletops and dark wood and white colors look clean and minimalist, but carry a sophisticated elegance. There is a long communal table, which have become popular at so many chic restaurants in the U.S., followed by a more traditional dining area. The bar dominates one wall and has a beautiful tangerine-colored domed roof, setting it off in a romantic light. It is a stylish restaurant that doesn’t try too hard to impress the eyes, and this is appropriate; at Panza, the artistry is concentrated on the food. If you really want to spoil your stomach, book a seating during the restaurant’s annual truffle festival, held each November-December. This gastronomic event—a first on the island in its scope and quality—brings the Piedmont tradition to Puerto Rico. White truffles from Alba, among the most highly prized foods in the world, are featured in a menu tailored to bring out their rich flavors. Each dish is paired with an excellent wine. At $250 per head, it might seem exorbitant, but gourmets the world over will tell you that it’s not a bad deal to sample one of the most prized delicacies on the market. The truffle festival menu changes every year, but the inaugural 2006 festival included an herbed cheese and egg soufflé with sliced white truffles and homemade egg tagliolini tossed in truffle butter sauce and served with sliced white truffles. White truffles are considered by some to be the food of the gods, and this event is as unique as it is decadent. Book your reservations well in advance. With its gracefully simple décor and exceptional cuisine, Panza is one of Puerto Rico’s newest stars. Poor Sancho Panza never ate this well. 329 Recinto Sur Street Old San Juan 00901 cervantespr.com 787-289-8900 Zain Deane is the author of the upcoming guidebook, “Great Destinations: San Juan, Vieques & Culebra,” published by the Countryman Press. |
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