LEVANTINE A Lovely Setting Where London Meets Lebanon By Zain Deane If you travel to London, there’s a strong chance you’ll find yourself in Paddington at some point; the Heathrow express, the commuter trains, the tube and the bus all make stops here. So it’s good to know that, just a block away from the station, there’s an unassuming little restaurant that will take you on a very different journey, all the way to Lebanon and the Middle East. Levantine is a sexy and sumptuous place, sister to Levant Restaurant on Wigmore Street. Its dimly lit, incense-and-hookah-infused atmosphere is as appropriate for a romantic date as it is for a group outing. The clientele is cosmopolitan and generally well-heeled, and they pack the restaurant in on weekends. The slightly cramped table space is the only knock on the décor, which is tastefully thematic of its cuisine. There are many Middle Eastern restaurants in London, especially on nearby Edgeware Road, and most of these are cheaper than Levantine. So why go here? Part of the reason is the chic ambience that makes you feel like you’re on a night out on the town. Rose petals strewn across the tables, low booths typical of the Middle East which practically force you into a posture of relaxation, a warm, engaging staff, and lively music (there’s an in-house DJ) all add to the restaurant’s allure. Even the bathrooms are lavishly appointed. Of course, the prices reflect these added touches, but thankfully, you get what you pay for, especially when it comes to the quality of the meal. Where Levantine really excels is the food. The menu is broad, with an encyclopedic selection of hot and cold mezze, or appetizers. These include the tried and true hummus, tabbulè (chopped parsley and tomato salad) falafel and kibbes (cracked wheat shells filled with a choice of meats and vegetables), as well as some delicious spicy sausages and lamb dishes. For something a little more exotic, try the octopus salad or the sautéed chicken livers in garlic and pomegranate juice. For the main course, you can’t go wrong with their grilled meat specialties. The shish kebab (marinated chunks of lamb), shish tawuk (marinated chicken) and lamb and chicken kaftas (minced meat with herbs, onions and spices) are all excellent. There is a decent selection of fish dishes, including fantastic grilled prawns and a mixed fish grill. If this is your first time eating Lebanese/Middle Eastern food, you might want to go with one of Levantine’s tiered set menus. But if you take this option, make sure to bring both wallet and appetite, because Chefs Michael Smith and Salim Cherbaji will present you with a towering amount and variety of food (at least 16 different hot and cold dishes). The set menus are for a minimum of two people. Dessert is one area where Middle Eastern food in general has fallen short, with nut-and-honey combinations that do the job but seldom leave you swooning with pleasure. The baklava and stuffed dates are tasty enough and go down well with the restaurant’s refreshing mint tea, or you can finish your feast off with a flavored shisha. On weekends, you get the added treat of live belly dancing, a somewhat hackneyed gimmick in Middle Eastern restaurants but still a fun addition, especially when the dancer engages the diners like they do here. I’ve seen more than a few red-faced Brits get up and shake clumsily along while the rest of the restaurant cheers them on. Also on tap for your entertainment is a resident tarot card reader. It’s all part of the fun at Levantine. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. From noon to six, it operates as a Salon de Thé, serving light mezze, shisha, mint tea and other drinks. But it’s most fun to go after the sun sets to fully appreciate its romantic escape into the Arabian Night. Levantine 26 London Street Paddington, London W21HH 0207-262-1111 www.levant.co.uk |
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