Vegetarians, skip this one. Everyone else: you’re going to like this. There’s a hallowed temple of meat in Karachi and it’s called Bar-B-Q Tonight. But I need a disclaimer before I continue this feature. Because barbecue in this part of the world goes way beyond burgers, steaks, and hot dogs. In fact, it’s a staple of South Asian cuisine, and this is the place to come to worship.

Pretty much everyone who enjoys Indian/Pakistani food has sampled chicken tikka and a kebab or two in their culinary journeys. At Barbecue Tonight, the tikka is juicy, tender and spiced just the way it should be; but it’s just the tip of the barbecue iceberg. And in this meatlover’s paradise, they don’t mess around.

First, I’ll give you the dictionary of kebabs. Seekh kebabs are long, cigar-shaped, grilled to perfection. (Vegetarians, you’re in luck – there’s a veggie version.) Chicken reshmi are similar to the seekh. Behari (chicken, beef or mutton) kebabs are more amorphous, but have a smoky, chunky, very spicy deliciousness to them. Boti kebabs are marinated cubes of chicken or mutton. There are a few Afghan versions of tikkas and kebabs, which means non-spicy. One of these is the chapli kebab, which is made of ground beef. Rounding out the list is a chunky grilled fish kebab.

You can feast on tikka and kebabs, with a few of their excellent nans (plain or stuffed), and waddle away happy. Or you can sample one or two and move on to a main course. Ever tried barbecued mutton leg, the meat falling off the bone? How about an immense, succulent slab of mutton ribs that redefine “finger-licking good”? Then there’s the dishes that require translation, like charga, or whole chicken spiced and barbecued on a spit, and shashlik, those skewered cubes of meat interspersed with peppers and onions that we’re all familiar with.

Of course, it wouldn’t be “Bar-B-Q” without steak, but these, while tasty, are limited. The seafood menu includes grilled jumbo prawns, seasoned and spiced whole pomfret, and fish tikka. There are also a range of more typical—for Pakistan—dishes; curries and karahi (which is the name of the pan in which the food is cooked, a Pakistani sort of stir-fry), and brain masala (for the adventurous). I’ll stick to the stuff that makes this place one of the most popular and busiest restaurants in the country.

A place called “Bar-B-Q Tonight” doesn’t exactly conjure up visions of a fine dining establishment, but this is where this restaurant separates itself from the many kebab-and-tikka joints in Karachi. An enormous, multi-story modern building in the upscale Clifton area of the city, Bar-B-Q Tonight can seat several thousand people on any given night. The décor is nothing to scream about, but it’s clean, polished, and the rooftop deck is lovely at night. On the street level is a long grill staffed with chefs busy at all hours.

Given the massive clientele and amazing turnover (If you want, you’ll eat a full meal, pay your bill, and be gone in less than an hour), it’s quite impressive that everything you eat here is cooked fresh and served just off the grill. I’ve yet to eat a stale cut of meat, even the food that’s delivered home. Bar-B-Q Tonight prides itself on prompt and efficient service; your meal is served within minutes after your order it. The quality of the meat is always top-notch, and, in a city where the wrong dish can make “Montezuma’s Revenge” seem like a mild disturbance, the hygienic standards ensure that you’re highly unlikely to fall sick after you eat here.

Put it all together, and it’s no surprise that this place keeps the grills hot, the people coming back, and their clients happy. If you pass through Karachi, don’t forget to pay homage at the temple.