Do you wish you had fewer lines, little to no age spots and an overall sparkling visage? Indulge yourself with first-rate expert advice straight from the seat of Fran E. Cook-Bolden, MD, a clinical Assistant Professor in the Department of Dermatology (College of Physicians and Surgeons) of Columbia University and the director of the Skin Specialty Group and the Ethnic Skin Specialty Group in New York City, New York.

In your 20’s
The real deal: “Here you need to begin to give your skin some focus, and the first thing is to determine your skin type. Take a typical day in the summer time to see how your skin feels in the middle of the day. Look at your cheek areas to see how oily they are to give you an indication of your skin type,” explains Fran.

Your best defense: “Get on a consistent skin care regime based on your skin type. It should always include a cleanser that does not leave skin as though it is cracking (this is too harsh), and add a sunscreen,” reports Fran. The sunscreen should feel good and work well with your skin, so if you are oily she recommends a spray or gel based formula. Most importantly Fran notes, “Sunscreen works best if it’s reapplied every two hours, and by combining a good sunscreen with moisturizer all-in-one, you’ll save steps in the future using this consistent routine.”

Fran recommends: LaRoche Posy Anthelios, Neutrogena Sunscreen with Helioplex or Alyria Sunscreen with EUK134. Couple one of the aforementioned with a mild cleanser and moisturizer; Aveeno Ultra Calming Cleanser and Lotion, CeraVe Gentle Cleanser and Lotion or Cetaphil Cleansing Lotion and Moisturizer.

In your 30s  
The real deal: “Here you’ll see signs on skin of what happened when you were younger, like uneven pigmentation and blotchiness. If you did not begin using consistent sunscreen prior your 30s you’ll see fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes,” notes Fran.

Your best defense: According to Fran investing in a skincare regime with retinols and retinoids, a vitamin A derivative, will provide skin with a natural exfoliation. “The antioxidants exfoliate and increase or speed up skin turnover to reverse some of the blotchiness and sun damage and help stimulate collagen to help take care of the fine lines and wrinkles,” she continues. “Furthermore if you suffer from sunspots add a topical cream with Vitamin C into your regime—in general incorporate antioxidants, vitamins A and C, into everyday use.”

Fran recommends: Roc Retinol Correxion-Deep Wrinkle Night Cream or Neutrogena Healthy Skin™ Anti-Wrinkle Intensive Serum.

In your 40s
The real deal: “At this time you’ll begin to see a little bit more loosening in the skin,” declares Fran.

The best defense: “Start doing something more physical like, at home microdermabrasions, and utilizing creams that contain adenoxine that help skin maintain its firmness. Another key ingredient to include in your regime to stimulate collagen is idebenone.” Lastly, she suggests focusing on collagen stimulation and maintaining firmness in your skin in the 40s.

Fran recommends: at home mircrodermabrasion kits, Meokine Intensive Smoothing Wrinkle Corrector Care with Adenoxine, or Eucerin CoQ10.

In your 50s
The real deal: Fran points out, “At this time you’ll see the maximum effect of the sun since childhood; the elastin fibers are very loose or fractured so skin does not respond or rebound as quickly. Also, you’ll see droop or sagging.”

Your best defense: “Focus on collagen stimulation and go for the gusto by getting into peptipeptides, growth factors and DNA stimulators,” states Fran. Peptipeptides and growth factors really are considered the super strength ingredients that’ll offer maximal collagen stimulation and sometimes even a reversal of some of the damage.” One ingredient Fran is fond of using, “Peptide matrixyl, a specific ingredient that if incorporated into your skincare mechanism will help to reverse the sun damage and strengthen skin’s elastin fibers.” As far as growth factors, Fran comments, “They accelerate the natural growth rate of skin, which allows skin to look more youthful and smoother.”

Fran recommends: Neocutis Bio-Restorative Cream and Hydrogel, Alyria Revitalizing Cream that contains matriyxl to help with tissue repair and collagen stimulation, and TNS Recovery Complex with Nouricel MD.

Fran’s age defying tips:

• Be consistent with sunscreen use and reapply it every two hours.

• No smoking, this includes both second hand and direct.

• Try to drink eight glasses of fluids a day; it does not have to be water, yet the clearer the better.

• Get plenty sleep, six to eight hours a night.

• Depending on your skin type, try to exfoliate once a week.

Expectant Mothers:
Fran points out that mommy’s-to-be should avoid retinods and vitamin A preparations, sticking to the basics of salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide. “Use a five to ten percent of benzoyl peroxide spot treating the problem area to calm inflammation and clear up a breakout.” For a natural alternative she suggests, “The anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties of tea tree oil work well. If skin tends to be more on the oily side use a bit of tea tree extract on a cotton ball applied directly to the area of outbreak.”