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Buenos Aires Awakens

El fútbol, the wine, the food, the women!

After years of economic turmoil, Buenos Aires is polishing up its image as a style capital. Vis.A.Vis explores this fascinating city and finds that Porteños have not forgotten how to live the good life. The beautiful neighborhoods are the perfect backdrop for the fresh creative spirit and the renewed sense of pride that is invigorating the city. Amid the delapidating elegance remains a passionate culture that is irresistible. No doubt Buenos Aires is back in business and ready to be great and glamorous again.

Postcards from Buenos Aires
By: Maria Tettamanti

Most travelers think they've stumbled upon a long-lost European country when they go to Argentina. A stroll through the capital city of Buenos Aires will have you singing praises to the city's European heritage. Unlike most Latin American cities, where the architecture reveals a strong Spanish colonial influence, Buenos Aires offers a mix of styles. Modern high-rises sit side by side with ornate buildings from days long gone. Plazas, palatial mansions, airy parks and neighborhoods evoke Rome, Madrid, Paris and Budapest.

And while the surroundings are more Euro than South American, so are the people. Like its chaotic past - both politically and economically - Argentina's community is in a constant state of frenzy. On an individual basis, however, the people are generous, delightful, full of life and eager to share the intricacies of their complex society. Sit down with an Argentine on any given day, and he or she will explain the country's history till daybreak.

With more than one-third of the country's 39 million inhabitants living in or around Buenos Aires, the city is the political, economic and cultural center of Argentina and the gateway to the rest of the country. Buenos Aires is also a city best explored one neighborhood at a time. Vis.A.Vis explored this diverse destination and fell in love with the beautiful backdrops and sensational people.

Casa Rosada
The Government House, aka Casa de Gobierno, known for its pink color, houses the executive branch of the government. Amicably known as Casa Rosada, it was constructed in the late 19th century and has since been modified by Swedish, Italian and French architects, thus explaining its odd mix of styles. The balcony facing Plaza de Mayo has served as a presidential podium for addressing crowds. It's also the lofty stage from which Evita rallied the descamisados (shirtless working class), Pope John Paul II blessed the crowd during his 1988 visit, and Madonna sang "Don't Cry for Me Argentina."



San Telmo
The bohemian San Telmo neighborhood, named after the patron saint of seafarers, sits midway between bustling El Centro and the quiet port area of La Boca. The cobblestone streets teem with antique shops, galleries, chic restaurants and traditional tango halls. The neighborhood is a cradle of the city's historic and cultural traditions, and all its landmarks have been declared National Historic Monuments. A saunter through San Telmo will transport you to the early 19th century, when the affluent Spaniards reigned de show. Nowadays, San Telmo has received a generous facelift, and its once-crumbling structures have been transformed into a dazzling district.

Palermo
With nearly 350 acres of parks, wooded areas and lakes, Palermo provides a peaceful escape from downtown Buenos Aires. Locals flock here for picnics, sunbathing, bicycle riding, roller-skating and jogs through the green grounds. A nerve center for equestrian activities, Palermo is also home to a polo field and hippodrome. Lush landscapes and polo playing can only mean one thing - that Palermo is one of the most opulent and exclusive neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. Prime real estate can be pinpointed along Avenida del Libertador overlooking the picturesque parks.



La Boca
La Boca (meaning "the mouth") is by far the most colorful neighborhood or barrio in Buenos Aires, so it's no wonder that La Boca is the home team of soccer legend Diego Maradona and birthplace of the tantalizing tango. An assortment of candy-colored painted houses made of wood and metal line the streets, including the famed main street Caminito, in this poor but happy area full of artisans, painters, street performers, cantinas and open-air tango shows. Originally settled by Italian immigrants who came to work in the neighboring docks in the 1880s, it's currently frequented by crowds of tourists who come to soak up the vibrant atmosphere.

Argentine Estates

Best known for gauchos, cattle and fine wine, Argentina is home to a spate of estancias. Just a day trip from Buenos Aires, you will discover the most authentic scene of traditional life in the small town of San Antonio de Areco. In this sleepy town, parrilladas (restaurants specializing in grilled meats) and cowboy life reign supreme. But don't be fooled - luxury accommodations including spa services, ranch activities and relaxing await you at Estancia La Bamba. Owned by the venerable Aldao family, Estancia La Bamba dates from 1832 and is designed in traditional Argentine style with beautiful roofed verandas and an interior courtyard. While the garden is a great place for sunbathing or stargazing, its living and dining rooms ooze aristocratic country splendor. Views of the surrounding plains are utterly breathtaking here at La Bamba.

Cuisine
Argentina is a steak-and-potatoes country - one bite of a sinfully succulent steak, and you'll know why. The beef is so good, most Argentines see little reason to eat anything else, though pork, lamb and chicken are tasty alternatives. Carne asada (roasted meat) is the staple here accompanied with vegetables. Beyond beef, many Argentine dishes are influenced by other cultures and pasta, pizza and Italian specialties are on every menu. Not to be missed, when available, is the white asparagus that grows south of Buenos Aires and chori-pan (sausage and bread sandwich).

Wine
Given the high consumption of beef rather than fish, Argentines understandably drink a lot of vinotinto (red wine); Malbec and Cabernet are the most popular. If you prefer vino blanco (white wine), try a sauvignon blanc or chardonnay from Mendoza. For
something cool on a sweltering day, slake your thirst with clericot, a white version of sangria, made with strawberries, peaches, oranges and sugar.

The Look of Buenos Aires
In keeping with its European allure, Argentines are fierce European and American fashion followers, and Porteños (the word locals refer to themselves as) are known for their obsession with it. "Argentinian women are avant-garde, but with a Latin touch," says fashion stylist Lucia Uriburu. As a result, Buenos Aires has world- class shopping from its large malls to its cobblestone streets. From the touristy Calle Florida's string of shops to the posh and pricey boutiques at Patio Bullrich, it's evident that Argentines embrace all things sexy. Uriburu adds, "The hottest designers in Argentina right now are Benito Fernández, Pablo Ramí­rez, Martin Churba, Jessica Trosman, Mariano Toledo and Maria Pryor." Vis.A.Vis took a particular liking to the creations of Nina Ricci and Sylvie Burstin. As far as fashion icons are concerned, Uriburu says, "We are inspired by international figures such as Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot, Marilyn Monroe and Jackie Onassis."

In conclusion, every trip to this colorful country should start in Buenos Aires, where you'll develop a strong sense of the people's character and culture. However, there's much more beyond the big city: gauchos work ranches that sprawl over every horizon, Iguazú Falls are perhaps the most spectacular falls in the world and the lonely, windswept beaches of Patagonia roll on forever. Tango, wining and dining - it's all here in Argentina.

Where to Stay
Located in the heart of Buenos Aires, Esplendor de Buenos Aires provides visitors with top-notch accommodations. Formerly known as Phoenix Hotel, the very first hotel opened in Buenos Aires, Esplendor de Buenos Aires has emerged as a new city icon. Combining the classic facade of a historical building with completely modern interiors, Esplendor de Buenos Aires is the finest option for travelers looking for the perfect combination of service, comfort and design. With views overlooking the prestigious Avenida Córdoba to calle San Martí­n, the hotel is located alongside the fine shops of Galerí­as Pacifico. Esplendor de Buenos Aires' spacious rooms feature a delectable decor and are sure to please the most discerning travelers.

As one of the first grand hotels to combine luxurious elegance with a myriad of amenities and services, Esplendor de Buenos Aires is the place to stay. With a reputation for unparalleled hospitality and service, the landmark beckons Argentines and visitors alike.

Where to buy:
Armani: Av. Alvear 1750 (Buenos Aires)
Benito Fernandez: www.benitofernandez.com.ar
De Marí­a: Libertad 1655 (Buenos Aires)
Fahoma: Libertad 1169 (Buenos Aires)
Infinit: www.infinitnet.com
Juana de Arco: www.juanadearco.net
Josefina Ferroni: www.josefinaferroni.com.ar
Las Pepas: www.laspepas.com.ar
Lonte
Louis Vuitton: Av. Alvear 1751 (Buenos Aires)
Luna Garzón: Libertad 1185 (Buenos Aires)
Marí­a Cher: www.maria-cher.com.ar
Marí­a Pryor: www.mariapryor.com
Mariana Dappiano: Honduras 4932 (Buenos Aires)
Mishka: El Salvador 4673 (Buenos Aires) Tel: 4833-6566
Natacha: www.natachaweb.com.ar
Nina Ricci: Av. Alvear 1539 (Buenos Aires)
Pablo Ramí­rez: www.pabloramirez.com.ar
Ricky Sarkany: www.rickysarkany.com
Santesteban
Tramando: www.tramando.com
Trosman: www.trosman.com

FASHION STYLIST: Lucí­a Uriburu, assisted by Mercedes Bufager
and Daniela Luciani
Hair by: Alejandra Lamensa
Makeup by: Lucí­a Numer
MODELS: Cinthia (ID Models ), Camila (Next Model Management )
Maximiliano and Juan Angel (Hype Models)


Special Thanks: Eduardo Piva and Cecilia Nicolini of the Argentina Tourism Office,
Mariana Prysunka of Grupo Fën with Fën Hoteles.

 

BUENOS AIRES AWAKENS

Fashion Credits
Photography by Marlena Bielinska
Fashion Stylist: Lucia Uriburu, assisted by Mercedes Bufager and Daniela Luciani
Hair: Alejandra Lamensa
Makeup: Lucia Numer
Models: Cinthia with ID Models, Camila with Next Model Management, Maximiliano and Juan Angel with Hype Models

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 On her: Armani top, Luna Garzon wood bracelets. On him: Armani shirt, Infinit sunglasses.

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 On her: Maria Pryor corsette and skirt, Natacha sandals, Fahoma bracelets. On him: Armani shirt and pants.

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 Left – on her: Trosman dress, Mishka shoes, Fahoma necklace. On him: Armani T-shirt and pants. Right – on her: Juana de Arco dress, necklace and brassiere. On him: Armani T-shirt.

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 On her: Nina Ricci dress and bracelets, Louis Vuitton purse, Josefina Ferroni shoes. On him: Armani pants and shirt.
 

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 On her: Tramando T-shirt, Maria Pryor skirt, Santesteban belt, Armani gloves. On him: Armani T-shirt and pants.

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 Nina Ricci dress, De Maria shoes.

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 Left – on her: Nina Ricci dress. On him: Armani T-shirt and pants. Right – Nina Ricci dress.

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 Left – on Juan: Armani tank top and pants, on Cinthia: Pablo Ramirez dress, on Camila: Pablo Ramirez shirt and skirt, Josefina Ferroni boots, on Maxi: Pablo Ramirez shirt and suit. Right – Nina Ricci dress.

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 Left – Benito Fernandez top and mini skirt, Lonte shoes. Right – Maria Pryor shirt, Benito Fernandez mini skirt, Fahoma necklaces, De Maria shoes, Maria Cher hat.

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 Armani jacket and cap, Trosman shorts, Luna Garzon necklace, Benito Fernandez sandals.

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 On Cinthia: Nina Ricci dress, Ricky Sarkany shoes, On Camila: Nina Ricci dress.