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OTTAWA
Canada’s Capital
And Cosmopolitan Center
By Ray Chatelin
Photos By Toshi


The most prominent feature of Canada’s Capital is the Parliament Buildings that rise high above the Ottawa River that separates the province of Ontario from Quebec.

But the ornate buildings that make up the site of the nation’s democracy, where parliamentarians determine the future and current course of the nation, represent more than a place of residence for Canada’s 311 elected representatives. They also represent the melding of two cultures, English and French, and nowhere else in the country can you so easily experience the best of both cultural worlds.

The two cultures that make up greater Ottawa present endless choice for activities as well as historical and cultural experiences. Called The National Capital Region, the two parts that make up Greater Ottawa, represent the founding culture of the nation.

On the Quebec side of the Ottawa River, reached by one of four bridges, is the town of Gatineau, formerly called Hull. And it’s a delightful entry into the world of French Canada, where small, intimate restaurants, bistros and cafes and one of Canada’s finest museums, The Canadian Museum of Civilization, reside.

Gatineau is a part of the region called Outaouais (pronounced oot-a-way), site of Gatineau Park, located just 15 minutes from downtown.  You can take Canada’s last authentic steam-powered train and stay overnight at the old grist mill, which dates back to 1838, and is located in the picturesque village of Wakefield. In Wakefield you might also want to stay at Les Trois Erables B&B, a delightful historical house that dates from 1896. And wandering through Gatineau Park, just outside Ottawa, takes you to the summer home of Canada’s 10th Prime Minister at Mackenzie-King Estate.

Speaking French is not a prerequisite for exploring Gatineau as virtually everyone moves between the two languages with ease.

The capital region, as you’d expect in any national capital, abounds with museums, art galleries, places of historical importance and you can spend several days exploring them. The National Gallery of Canada houses an international array of great contemporary and period art pieces – European, Canadian, American, Asian and South American – and is one of North America’s finest art museums and galleries. The Canada Aviation Museum, the Canadian War Museum, the Canadian Museum of Nature, and Rideau Hall (the home of Canada’s Governor General, officially the nation’s Head of State) are just a few of Ottawa’s must-see attractions.

But the crown jewel of Ottawa’s many museums is The Canadian Museum of Civilization, where you can spend a full day wandering through its three levels. It has, among other exhibits, what is arguably the continent’s finest collection of artifacts of Canada’s Aboriginal Peoples living in coastal British Columbia, and features a wide range of artifacts and imagery. The First Peoples Hall celebrates the diversity and contributions of Canada’s First Peoples from their earliest origins to the present day.

Once you’ve had enough of museums and art galleries, you’ll find that Ottawa has an endless supply of great restaurants, theater and music of all kinds. The National Arts Centre, located along the Rideau Canal, is the center of the city’s performing arts with orchestras, ballet, theater and popular performers from around the world.

And if you’re in the city in winter, you must skate the Rideau. The Rideau Canal, 202 km (126 miles) long, links Lake Ontario at Kingston with the Ottawa River. Originally conceived of as a military project—it was to be a secure supply line between Upper and Lower Canada in case invading Americans cut trade along the St. Lawrence River—the canal was dug between 1826 and 1832. Today, the canal is a playground—for skaters in the winter and for boaters in the summer.  

You don’t have to skate the entire canal, of course. During the winter, a total of 7.8 km of the Rideau, from downtown out to Dows Lake, is maintained as a skating surface with places to stop along the way for hot refreshments and food. At the end of the surprisingly smooth icy canal, is a wonderful restaurant where you can stop for lunch.

The beginning of the canal is marked by the two grand architectural landmarks of Ottawa – The Canadian Parliament buildings and the Chateau Laurier Hotel. There are several tours during the say of the Parliament Buildings and, when Parliament is in session, you might be able to sit in the gallery during question period, watching and hearing Members of Parliament, debate issues and personalities.

The Chateau is one of the great hotels of Canada, playing host to royalty, heads of state, political figures, celebrities and members of Canada's elite. Now part of the Fairmont chain of luxury hotels, it was originally constructed between 1909 and 1912 as part of The Grand Trunk Railway, later to become Canadian National Railway (CNR). Designed in grand French Renaissance style, it’s both a national heritage site and where Canada’s political wheelers and dealers conduct their informal business.

Just behind the Chateau, is The ByWard Market, Ottawa's major entertainment area with a variety of shops and boutiques, some 80 restaurants and cafés, a thriving nightlife and Canada's oldest continuously operating farmers’ market. It’s the oldest section of the city and was originally the home of Ottawa’s first laborers and had the reputation of being a rowdy place that respectable people avoided.

Today, it’s a showcase of French Canadian architecture and charming shops where anyone who’s anyone, must be seen. The ByWard Market itself offers over 100 vendors of fresh fruits and vegetables, plants and flowers, and arts and crafts. The area also boasts cobblestone courtyards behind the Sussex Drive boutiques, historic buildings transformed into shops and restaurants, and Ottawa's best people-watching opportunities.

Regardless of your cuisine of choice, you won’t find a bad eating among the restaurants in the Ottawa area. For something unique, you have to tip a pint at D’Archy McGees Pub on Sparks Street, near the National Art Centre and just steps away from where the pub’s namesake and one of Canada’s Fathers of Confederation was assassinated. It’s a gathering place for the after work crowd and a delightful place to have a great time.

Ottawa offers an endless array of activities, pleasures, and delights regardless of the season. As Canada’s capital, you’ll find an international gathering place where posted diplomats of embassies and consulates from around the world make the city a cosmopolitan center.

For information, Ottawa’s website is at www.ottawa.ca/visitors and for Gatineau, www.ville.gatineau.qc.ca . For Outaouais: www.tourismeoutaouais.com . You have the choice of either English or French at all three websites.