Cafe Versailles in Little Havana, Miami

CAFÉ VERSAILLES
A Little Cuban
Heaven In Little Havana
By Zain Deane

Eighth Street. In Spanish, Calle Ocho. This is the heart of Miami’s Little Havana, home to the city’s vibrant Cuban community. English is a second language here, but if you want to try some of the best down-home Cuban cooking north of Castro’s homeland, you’ll need to know a bit of French. Okay, maybe just one word of French: Versailles.

Why Versailles? The story I heard from one of the staff was that the place got its name from a Hotel Versailles in Cuba. She spoke as if she could care less where the name came from, and frankly, I had to agree. The name is the only trace of France you’ll find here. Everything else is Cuban to the bone.

Versailles is not just a restaurant. It’s a meeting place for families, locals, and tourists who know where they’re going; a walk-up coffee bar where you’ll find proud old blue- and white-collar Cuban men engaged in profound political debate; a late-night hangout where you can eat a full meal at four in the morning on weekends; a full-service bakery; and above all, a slice of pure Cuba libre.

However, as this is primarily a restaurant review, let me focus on the menu, which is so extensive that the daily specials alone could be considered complete menus in other joints. Like most of Latin and South America, Cuban food is simple and hearty. Cholesterol and calories are afterthoughts. Fried foods, rice and beans, and lots of starch are commonplace. You’ll find all the well-loved staples like arroz con pollo (chicken with rice), ropa vieja (literally “old clothes” – a dish made with shredded beef and red and green peppers), lechón (roast pork) and, naturally, the Cuban sandwich (ham and cheese on a toasted flatbread). You’ll have your choice of fried and roasted chicken and a variety of steaks, and simply prepared seafood dishes.

There are a few lesser known departures from the basics. The lengua asada (roasted tongue steak) is tender and succulent. The rabo de ternera (oxtail) is melt-off-the-bone delicious and served in rich brown gravy. But for the most part, it’s dependably safe. Still, there is one common thread to the food at Versailles: they don’t skimp on the portions. “Generous helpings” doesn’t really do it justice, and yet, I always do my best to finish what I’ve started when I come here. For the money, it’s near impossible to find better food in larger quantities.

As for décor, Versailles is essentially a fancy diner, with an abundance of chandeliers dangling in an otherwise plain room. It’s a large restaurant that can seat up to 400, comprised of two adjoining dining rooms.

Dessert offers more rib-sticking fare like the ever-popular flan and tres leches (a milk-infused, super-sweet cake), but save the coffee for the outside bar area. This is where Versailles provides more than a mere dining experience. After a full meal, I love to wander out to the plain white bar, where the same two women are always there to brew a cortadito. This is a can’t-miss part of your trip to Little Havana. It’s not just the intensely strong and flavorful shot of coffee (ask for it con leche evaporada (“with evaporated milk”). There is also the wonderful communal atmosphere here, a sense of friends and regulars getting together after a hard day’s work to share the day’s news. I love taking my time here, surrounded by strangers with their demitasse cups, soaking in the coffee and the sun. I’ve never been to Cuba, but I’d be willing to bet that this is as close as you can get to the real deal.

If for you’re still hungry, there are pastries waiting to tempt you, like guava and cheese turnovers and chicken patties. Also available is a small selection of cigars, and sugar cane juice. Or, you can amble on to the third act of the Versailles culinary experience. At the other end of the restaurant is the Versailles bakery, where you can buy fresh-baked bread, croquettes, turnovers, cakes, and other baked goods.

Don’t let the French name fool you; this is quintessential Cuba, and it’s just a short drive from South Beach.