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MEAT ME
IN MEXICO
Spuntino Brings
The Argentine Grill
To Mexico City
By Zain Deane

The breadth and quality of dining options that you get in Mexico City is one of its most delightful surprises. In addition to excellent traditional and nouveau Mexican restaurants (which go far beyond the Tex-Mex stuff that we all-too-often believe is authentic Mexican food), there is an influx of international flavors that caters to a global palate. One of the most ubiquitous foreign additions to the dining scene is the numerous Argentine restaurants in the city; and one of its most enjoyable champions is Spuntino.

Dominating a corner of Mexico City’s swank Polanco neighborhood and surrounded by fine restaurants, Spuntino’s always bustling, and with good reason. The warm, open restaurant casts a wide, arcing shadow over Emilio Castelar Avenue, placing it in ideal position to appeal to all your senses. The seating is all outdoors (under canopy in case of rain), and the irresistible buzz of people enjoying their food will float straight to your ears. The bright blue and red color scheme draws the eye, and the smell of roasting meat will have your nose guiding your feet.

Anyone who knows Argentine cuisine knows that meat (beef in particular) is king, and Spuntino is no exception. The menu is about as bare-bones as you can get, and is dominated by the carne (“meat) section. Here, there’s a range of grilled steaks, sausages, and chicken to choose from. You really can’t go wrong with any one of these, but if you’re in a group, go for the parrillada para compartir. This mixed grill is a good way to sample a few things; it includes several cuts of beef, including ribs. You also get a generous hunk of chicken, which you might dismiss as a throw-in until you bite through the crispy skin into its succulent, perfectly grilled center. Some of us felt the chicken was the best thing on the menu.

The dish is served on a small barbecue grill (these nifty mini-grills are available for sale, incidentally, at a modest $80), so it keeps roasting under hot coals to ensure the meat stays warm and juicy. You get a barbecue fork and long knife, so it’s perfect for the proud grill-man of the house who loves to cook his steak. Of course, the longer you let it sit, the longer it will cook, so those of you who like your meat bloody would do well to remove it quickly.  Of course, you can also place individual orders, and really, you can’t go wrong.

To help balance the meal (hardly!), there’s a roasted half tomato and a few spring onions thrown on the grill. While delicious, you might also want a vegetable dish to counter all that protein. Your choices here are limited, but they do include french fries, a very good parmesan asparagus, and a few salads. To wash down your carnivorous intake, there’s a good selection of wines and a full bar along one curving end of the restaurant.

Spuntino also has a decent selection of Italian dishes. The pastas include lasagna bolognesa and ravioli, sorrentinos (stuffed pasta) and tallarines (or “tagliarini”), served with your choice of sauce. These range from bolognesa, siciliana, pesto, burro, and carbonara. There’s even a wood-burning brick oven that produces some fine pizzas. These are best sampled on your second, maybe third visit to the restaurant; on your first trip, it would be a crime to steer clear of the grill.

Argentines know what to do with good meat, and Mexicans know what to do with good food. Spuntino is doing its part by keeping a tender piece of Argentina alive in Mexico City. Don’t miss out.