As refreshingly cool as the ocean, Aguaviva is one of the must-do dining destinations in Old San Juan … and that’s saying something for a city stuffed with great places to eat. You won’t find your typical Puerto Rican fare here; for mofongo and arroz con pollo, keep moving. No, this restaurant is something altogether different from the norm, serving up wildly creative food in a serene setting that plants you somewhere between an aquarium and a nightclub.

That might not sound like a great visual, but somehow Aguaviva pulls it off. From the funky blue and green jellyfish lamps set in a wavy pattern on the ceiling to the ocean floor tiles to the icy raw bar, the restaurant is the decorative equivalent of a splash of cold water on a hot day. If walking in won’t cool you down, one of their signature watermelon sangrias should do the trick.

Sticking to the water theme, it’s no shock that Aguaviva’s specialty is, as they put it, “seaside latino cuisine”. What is a pleasant surprise is what they do with the ocean’s bounty. This place does neat things with seafood, and you’ll appreciate them for it. Not for nothing do they boast a ceviche bar in addition to the more traditional oyster bar, and you’ll kick yourself if you don’t sample at least one ceviche. There are six on the menu, and some of them are simply inspired. Those familiar with ceviches cherish them for the citrus-infused freshness of the seafood, but at Aguaviva, they got creative. Want examples? Try the tuna and salmon ceviche cured in tequila, or the grouper ceviche with coconut and lime (my two favorites). There’s also a spicy mixed fish ceviche that’s almost like a cold fra diavolo. But Aguaviva doesn’t completely abandon it’s ‘Rican roots; the ceviches are served with tostones (baked plantains). You can pick one or try a tasting menu that lets you sample 2, 3, or all 6 varieties.

You can also opt for one of two seafood towers (hot or cold): a tiered arrangement of mussels, shrimp, clams, lobster, and, of course, oysters. But after your ceviche, you might want to move onto a main course. Food Network groupies have to sample the Nuevo Paella, which uses couscous instead of rice and is made with seared jumbo scallops, mussels, clams, and chorizo. The Paella purists among you are probably grumbling, but this dish went all the way to “Iron Chef America,” where it fought against Mario Batali’s concoction. (Here’s a tip: don’t ask who won; just appreciate the talent.)

Other staples of the menu include the halibut medallions served with a crabmeat fondue, pan-seared grouper served with a truffle mojo, and barbecued jumbo shrimp accompanied by crabmeat and basmati-rice. Along with the Paella, the most popular item on the menu is the swordfish chop, a hulking hunk of fresh swordfish grilled with marinated wild mushrooms. This dish is such a favorite that you’ll need to call ahead to reserve your chop, because they tend to run out.

The menu is certainly centered on the Caribbean, but there are some international flavors thrown in to accentuate the dishes. During lunch hours, the menu changes a bit (the raw bar items are still there), and includes a range of excellent sandwiches. My recommendation is the crispy Calamari sandwich, served with caramelized onions.

Dining in Puerto Rico can be a heavy affair; while the food is delicious, it’s typically a hearty meal that will swiftly pile up the pounds. But Aguaviva keeps things light, fresh, and delicious – so delicious, in fact, that the restaurant was ranked by Conde Nast Traveler as one of the 75 best new restaurants in 2003. Dive in, and enjoy.

Aguaviva
787-722-0665
364 Fortaleza Street
Old San Juan, Puerto Rico
www.oofrestaurants.com/aguaviva