At first, I didn’t get it. Here I was in beautiful Naples, staying at the fine Inn on 5th, and the one restaurant recommended above all others was a seafood & steak house that had its roots in, of all places, Texas. Now, Texas isn’t exactly known for its seafood. And in Florida, which has more local seafood joints than I could visit in a lifetime, why would I travel west for my crab dinner? Then, things became clearer … and tastier.

Truluck’s indeed first opened its doors in Texas, but they are Floridians when it comes to their crab. They own their own fisheries just off the Isle of Capri, near Naples, as well as a fleet of sixteen crabbing boats. So fresh, catch-of-the-day crab and other seafood was a given. It also made sense that the restaurant would open a branch on Florida’s gulf coast.

But Truluck’s is far more than a place for great crab. This is fine dining at its Floridian (or Texan, I suppose) best. By that, I mean that Truluck’s manages a relaxed and friendly ambience, with a casual style (where else will you pay top dollar for “big ass shrimp”?), while producing the highest quality food in a lovely setting. Mounted fish and nautical memorabilia adorn the walls, and plantation-style fans hang from the ceiling, providing a pleasant breeze to match the soft lighting. At the far end, a large, polished bar curves around a corner and extends almost the length of the wall. You can enjoy a more laid-back dinner here while listening to a live band or piano-player. If you prefer outdoor dining, a covered balcony awaits.

The staff is among the best I’ve encountered anywhere in Florida. Knowledgeable about their menu, genuinely amiable, and impeccable with their service, they champion the excellent standards at Truluck’s. Together with the elegant décor, the staff reinforces the experience of a top-tier restaurant, but here’s the cool thing about it; you, the customer, can appear in a suit or in shorts and a t-shirt, and be treated just the same. No need to put on airs here; you’re welcome to relax and enjoy the food.

Regardless of what you’re wearing, you will savor your meal. The menu changes weekly to ensure the freshest fish and seafood are on the plate, but first-timers will do well to stick to the stars of the show: crab and steak. Stone crab, of course, is a seasonal Floridian luxury, and Truluck’s is known for it. The menu also offers North Atlantic Jonah crab (Monday nights is all-you-can-eat Jonah crab night), Pacific Northwest Dungeness crab, Alaskan red king crab, and Australian spanner Crab.

The red king Alaskan red king crab, served in one- or two-pound servings, makes for an unforgettable dinner. Truluck’s chef has been on the Discovery Channel’s The Deadliest Catch, and his efforts have paid off. This absolutely massive hunk of crab, lightly tossed in lemon-garlic butter, is a royal and succulent banquet for any crab-lover.

Truluck’s also has a creative selection of fish and seafood courses, like black grouper Pontchartrain and blue-crab-topped Gulf red snapper. One of the things I like about the menu is that most of the dishes will tell you where the catch comes from. Truluck’s prides itself on the quality of the seafood it serves, and it happily discloses its origins. One example of this is the popular Thai chili day boat scallops. I asked what “day boat” meant and was informed that most scallop boats spend weeks out at sea, and their haul hangs out in storage on the boat until it returns to port. Day boat scallops are caught and brought in on the same day, ensuring their freshness; like I said, this place has the highest standards.

Caught up in my seafood rapture, I almost forgot about the steaks at Truluck’s, which are outstanding. One of the stalwarts of the menu is the filet of beef Oscar, a surf-and-turf combination of center-cut filet topped with spanner crab. You can also try the pepper-coated, bone-in ribeye. The quality of the beef is the same as the quality of the fish.

Complementing your entrée are the terrific sides, which include Truluck’s signature parmesan mashed potatoes, jumbo asparagus, and delicious crab-fried rice. But don’t fill your belly on these, or you’ll miss the homemade desserts, which range from the artistic (a chocolate tower filled with sponge cake and fruit that’s deconstructed table-side) to the orgiastic (a chocolate cake that will have you closing your eyes and moaning softly as you bite into it).

“Truluck’s” is an amalgamation of “truly” and “lucky”. The story goes that, as the two partners who started the chain were chatting about their venture one day, one of them said that they were “truly lucky” to be doing what they loved. I think it’s their customers who are the lucky ones.

Zain Deane is the author of the upcoming guidebook, “Backroads & Byways of Florida,” published by the Countryman Press.