July/August 2007 SHOES TALK By Leah JayasankerThe Colorful History Of Wedges And Flats Did you know that Dorothy’s ruby slippers were actually silver in the original script of “The Wizard of Oz” and were changed to red since they looked better in Technicolor? Another interesting fact, relevant for women who scrunch their toes into shoes, in the United States $2 billion a year is spent on surgery correcting problems generated by tight-fitting shoes. Sounds like a considerable amount of blisters. Sticking with the basics, below is brief look at the beginnings of the wedge shoe and the ballet flat. Creativity in shoes The orthopedic wedge was supposedly created by Italian footwear designer Salvatore Ferragamo in 1935. Experimenting with materials such as string and straw Ferragamo is also credited for inventing the wedge heel in 1936. Around 1937, inspired by the Italian Renaissance, Ferragamo resurrected the Chopine, or the tall platform shoe. With a shortage of materials (leather) Ferragamo utilized his creativity by adapting wood and cork into platform soles and inserting cellophane in place of straps. The cork wedge was devised via layers of Sardinian cork. Despite its cumbersome sole, the wedge served as a sturdy platform for walking and withstood wear and tear. In 1938 Ferragamo created the famous platform sandal for Judy Garland which contained layers of different colored chamois with an upper made of padded gold kid straps with a buckle. The majority of non-leather shoes were a novelty at first, and then became widely popular throughout Europe during World War II. Around 1941 platform shoes made their way into North American stores. Ladies liked the elevation, and when combined with shoulder pads it gave the impression of an elegant, tall physique. Alongside the platform, the wedge heel became very common, as it gave American women more height and was sturdier than the flat-soled shoe. By the end of the war platform shoes were almost five inches in height. However, the style soon became unattractive, especially for ladies who wanted to portray a petite form. A brief history of flats The flat pump or ballet flat is now a must-have shoe for women. Back in the 1500’s it was a wardrobe staple for men, known as pompes. Not until the 16th century did flats become popular with both men and women. The nobility in Egypt adorned their sandals in jewels. The Roman sandal become popular for long journeys through Europe as it was bound tightly with strong leather cords. By medieval times the flat shoe was still trendy, yet had morphed into the lanky poulaine. Essentially, the length of one’s shoe reflected their social standing in society. A commoner could wear nothing longer than six inches. A knight could use up to18 inches; and a Baron could wear anything up to 24 inches in length. Heels became popular in the 16th century when itty bitty Catherine de Medici, requested her cobbler add two extra inches onto her wedding shoes. Around the 17th and 18th centuries, high-heels became the norm for men and women of the royal courts. Shoes for ladies were adorned with jewels and fur and the heels of Kings Louis XIV and XV depicted miniature battle scenes. Return to flats By the start of the French revolution in 1789 high heels were synonymous with aristocracy and were considered to be crude and garish. When Marie Antoinette went to the guillotine scaffold wearing a pair of high heels, the heel as a fashion statement was effectively cut short. During the industrial revolution and most of the 1800’s flat shoes, boots and sandals were functional choices for men and women. The heeled shoe did not resurface until the late 1800’s at which time it was confined to women only. The twentieth century In 1957 screen legend Audrey Hepburn slid on a pair of ballet flats, oversized shades and skinny pants in Funny Face and Americans fell back in love with flats. Today the ballet flat is a cherished style for women of all ages, as they pair nicely with a suit, are practical for running errands and wear well with short dresses. * Salvatore Ferragamo images featured courtesy Museo Salvatore Ferragamo * Bettye Muller flat ($295), available at Piperlime.com |
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