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A MEXICAN TIANGUI
Tradition And Taste
At A Mexican “Marketplace”
By Zain Deane

Mexico City has no shortage of fine restaurants, and Mexican cuisine is far more sophisticated than most Americans believe. But street food exists in every country, and it’s often the best way to sample the local flavor. So if you’re feeling adventurous and want to eat off-the-street home cooking, you have to check out a tiangui.

So what the hell is a tiangui? Don’t bother looking it up in your Spanish dictionary. Tiangui is derived from a Nahuatl word (the language of the Aztecs), Tianquiztli, and it means “marketplace”. Marketplaces have been integral social and economic components for every major civilization, and the Aztec and Mayans of Mesoamerica were no different. This was a place to trade for clothes, food, spices, luxuries, and all manner of goods.

Today’s tianguis aren’t that far removed from their ancestors. Walking through the markets, you’ll find a hodgepodge of accessories, produce, toys, and other paraphernalia … but we’re interested in food. And the tianguis will provide. Not all markets are alike, however, and some should be avoided by the tourist with the delicate gringo stomach. In the fashionable Polanco district, adjacent to a lovely neighborhood park, a vibrant tiangui springs to life on the weekends, all colorful canopies and delicious aromas and fresh produce. And dominating the length of the market are the food stalls.

This is a lively, cacophonous part of the market that’s sure to attract the biggest crowds. The food is cheap, it’s fresh, it’s delicious, and Mexicans love to eat, so it’s a formula for success. You can try just about anything at the tiangui, from the basic (a chicken taco) to the exotic (fried worms, anyone?). A small army of line cooks defend their places by the street, grinning and chopping and hollering. On the other side of the stalls, hordes of people yell out their orders, much like Wall Street brokers, and scoop up the paper plates when they’re ready.

It’s a fun, communal atmosphere. You won’t hear a word of English, but you don’t really need to speak – you can point and smile and hold out some cash, and that is enough to get you fed. But what to eat? A can’t-miss delicacy at any tiangui is the blue-corn tortilla filled with nopales (cactus leaves) and cheese. This is a Mexican fast food specialty, and the crispy tortilla matches perfectly with the meaty leaf and stringy cheese. After one or two of these, you might want to try a flauta or taco with huitlacoche, a Mexican corn truffle. This is more of an acquired taste; it has a strong, rich, earthy flavor. Another favorite veggie filling is calabaza, or squash.

Now it’s time to tackle the meats. Beef, pork, chicken, goat, lamb, fish, seafood, and, yes, worms, are all available at the market. And by “all” I mean “all” – not just the steaks, but other body parts that you may not be accustomed to eating. You can try goat’s head tacos if you’re up for it, or cow’s brains. You might be more familiar with chicharrones, or fried pork rinds.

But you don’t have to wander too far away from your comfort zone. A taco, enchilada, or flauta of beef, chicken, or pork is fresh and delicious. You can get chicken smothered in mole poblano (a spicy sauce typically made with chocolate), or, for the most basic palate, a filet of strip steak.

However adventurous you want to be, the tiangui is a fantastic culinary destination. It’s an age-old experience that presents you with a huge variety of snacks and meals; it’s a chance to savor Mexico’s at its humblest and most authentic; and it’s an opportunity to mingle with hundreds of locals who just want what you want: to eat something good.