SAY OLA Miami Welcomes A Familiar Face And A Fresh Taste By Zain Deane Miami and Latin food aren’t exactly strangers to each other, so for me to recommend a place that specializes in this type of cuisine, it has to offer something special. To be counted among the must-visit dining destinations in South Beach, it must wow the palate as well as the eye. Fortunately, Ola does it all. Ola is the latest creation of celebrated chef Doug Rodriguez, one of the pioneers and champions of Nuevo Latino Cuisine and overseer of wildly popular restaurants around the country (Philly’s Alma de Cuba and Manhattan’s Patria, to name a few) that carry his inventive brand of Latin flavor. Chef JoseLuis Flores, a Doug Rodriguez protégé, presides at Ola Miami and brings many of Chef Rodriguez’s signature dishes to South Beach. But we’ll get to the food in a second. Dominating the lobby of the marvelously hidden Sanctuary Hotel, Ola is a cool oasis of soft, recessed lighting, cucumber and orange hues, mirrors and dark wood. Along with the hip music piped into the room, the décor leans toward funky without losing its sophistication (the same can be said of the menu). In short, it complements both the hotel and its new neighborhood perfectly. Just as Latin food is ubiquitous in these parts, so does the mojito pop up at practically every establishment with something edible for sale. But Ola’s version of the drink remains a favorite start to a meal. After you’ve whetted (and wetted) your appetite, it’s time to explore the menu. Exactly what is Nuevo Latino cuisine? The simplest and blandest explanation is a modern take on traditional Latin cooking. But I’d go beyond that, at least when talking about Ola: this menu has been constructed over time to pull elements of Caribbean and Latin American cooking with ingredients and techniques that span the globe. South American cuisine is itself much broader than the rice-and-beans driven foods that most people know about. To get an idea of what I’m talking about, I’d suggest beginning your dinner by sampling one of Ola’s ceviches. Exotic flavors including yuzu, jasmine, and blood orange infuse these Peruvian classics with a boldness that goes far beyond citrus and fresh seafood. After one of these openers, you can move on to the appetizers. Again, you’ll find the food you know and love transformed into something resembling the original but profoundly different. Try the smoked marlin, served in crispy malanga tacos (similar to taro), or the “mystery meatballs” (hint … ever tried Kobe beef?). For an entrée, your taste buds will find creative but more true-to-Latin-kitchen specialties that are just too good to mess with. The plantain-crusted mahi-mahi over a braised oxtail stew is mouthwateringly good; the churrasco steak accompanied by asparagus and crabmeat sauce, is among the best I’ve had; and the crispy pork has drawn orgasmic sighs of contentment. This summer, Ola’s culinary journeys into and beyond South America produced a fun and creative way to introduce the cuisine of different nations to its diners. The Passport to Summer dining program offers a three-course prix fixe menu of classics from Brazil (June), Argentina (July) and Spain (August & September). As part of the promotion, customers are given a “passport” which, at the end of the meal, will be stamped with a visa for that country. Cocktails and music from each country enhance the experience; it’s an interesting flight of fancy and food for those of you who are looking for something different. I love the name “Ola” for its multiple interpretations. It’s can be read as “Ola,” which is Spanish for “wave” or as “Hola” the greeting, but it’s really an acronym for “Of Latin America.” The food is no less varied, demanding to be sampled and experienced by every new diner. Ola Restaurant 1745 James Avenue Miami Beach, FL 33319 305-695-9125 * Images courtesy of Beyond Photography |
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