Before my trip to the Italian Riviera, visions of cobalt-blue waters, paint-chipped fishing boats, emerald mountains, terra-cotta terraces and plates of pasta pranced in my head. Afterward, I discovered the Riviera encompasses all of these elements, but I never imagined how deeply Italy evokes feelings of love and ardor. While I consider myself a well-seasoned sojourner, never in my travels have I encountered a destination capable of making my heart somersault while simultaneously falling in love again.

My husband came along for the spree, adding a sort of adventurous twist to the trip - and obviously a romantic one as well. A big fan of driving fast enough to break the sound barrier, he insisted we trek up and down the Ligurian coastline starting in the enchanting town of Sestri Levante, to the five extraordinary villages of Cinque Terre, up to the ultra-chic Portofino and finally the postcard-perfect Santa Margherita.

Nuzzled alongside Sestri Levante's twin bays of the Baia delle Favole (Bay of Fables) and Baia del Silenzio (Bay of Silence), we stayed in the cozy - and aptly named - Hotel Vis-a-Vis. Located smack dab in the middle of the Ligurian Riviera, it's the ideal nesting spot for Riviera revelers. Hotel Vis-a-Vis harbors 46 spacious rooms with private balconies overlooking the mesmerizing bays and verdant mountains, creating a beautiful backdrop ideal for noshing brioches (croissants) and frothy cappuccinos. Other lavish amenities include the gourmet Ristorante Olimpo, a pool with clear sky views, afternoon tea at Ponte Zeus, business center and private gym. Hotel owner Nicolò Mori says, "In 1964 my grandfather started constructing a house in these hills but realized he had to share the views of the peninsula and two bays, so he built a hotel instead."

In keeping with his nautical roots, Mori's grandfather created a hotel inspired by his passion for ships - from the black and white photographs of Italian fishermen adorning suite rooms to the water vistas. Mori, a cognoscente of classical studies, added his personal touch by naming each level of the hotel with mythological monikers. Over a glass of Pinot Grigio in the Triton Room, Mori says, "In this room, you'll notice Jamiroquai's music is playing. In keeping with the masculine Triton theme, only male music is heard in here." Clearly, Hotel Vis-a-Vis is fit for gods.

Throughout the entire stay, Mori, like his fellow Italians, treats us like famiglia. And while I may be some thousands of miles from mia casa, Mori's warmth makes his guests feel at home. In fact, Hotel Vis-a-Vis is the type of place I suspect the same families visit year after year. Mori confirms this assumption and says, "We've had a Belgium family visiting here since our opening in 1964 - they always dine at the same dinner table all these years." Mori treats his guests with the love and admiration he shares for his sister, nephews and nieces who are also adorable fixtures within the hotel's premises.

Sestri Levante, unlike its surrounding Ligurian villages, has a humble, authentic feel. While walking the cobblestone roads, we noticed few tourists and we relished in this, especially since there aren't street vendors pedaling knockoff Gucci bags on every corner, homeless people begging for Euros or busloads of day- trippers teeming in. It's a genuine town where mornings are still, siestas are still commonplace and evenings are spent imbibing aperitifs. While visiting Sestri Levante, it's critical you try their most popular dish of trofie al pesto, saunter its sandy beaches along candy-colored buildings and lap up limoncello by the inlets. Doing so is sure to spice up your senses and set the mood for love.

Next, we wandered southeast to the five fantasy-like villages of Cinque Terre (meaning five lands). While the easiest way to reach Cinque Terre is by train, my husband, who drives like Mario Andretti, insisted we jump on the autostrade (highway) from Sestri Levante (against the advice of the locals!), and drive the 45 minutes through the craggy mountains. Luckily, we got there in one piece and are proud to report it's virtually impossible to get lost anywhere in Italy as the road signs are clearer than a D-colored diamond. So after many twists, swirls, whirls and tummy-churning turns, it's best to commence the Cinque Terre tour in the last village of Riomaggiore and work your way back west through the towns of Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare. While cars are barred from entering each town, visitors must park outside each village and walk up and down the sloped streets (read: sport sneakers or you will suffer shin splints the following day). The five villages are indeed charming as they're literally built into the rocks between the beach and hills, but they are far from being an untapped resource - tourists are aplenty here and so are cheesy travel tchotchke stands. Order a pizza margherita by the bay in Vernazza - loaded with real mozzarella cheese and just the right amount of fresh tomato sauce, it will deter you from ordering Dominos ever again. But any way you slice it, this 18 kilometers of sheer rocky coastline, terraced hills and vineyards sloping steeply toward the sea are a must see. In fact, the journey from town to town at cloud-high heights was dreamy enough for my usually laconic husband to utter terms of endearment worthy of Pulitzer-prize prose - talk about romance! Lastly, we jaunted to the neighboring towns of Portofino and Santa Margherita - arguably the most popular and paradisiacal posts along the Golfo del Tigullio. These locales are a mere half-hour from Sestri Levante and worth every minute of the westbound drive. Santa Margherita, with its tulip-tickled harbor, is the ideal place for a hand-in-hand seaside stroll. And when your feet start begging for mercy, grab a bellini and nocciola- flavored gelato at Ristorante Colombo - your soles and taste buds will adore you. Next, head toward the fashion hotspot of Portofino. Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Pucci - they're all there, patiently waiting for you to drop a couple thousand Euros. The feel in this natty nook is definitely more chi chi, and once you're there, you'll understand why paparazzi-shy celebrities flock to this secluded spot. And while savoring seafood at Ristorante Del Marinaio, you too will feel swanky. There's a spritz of ritz in the air here - just sniff it in.

While high season begins in June and ends in September, the Riviera is the place to see and be seen. There's a magical quality here that causes lovers to bask in a sense of joie de vivre. I can attest to falling in love with Italy - its sights, people and culture - all the while falling in love all over again with my copilot, my husband, con tutto il mio coure (with all of my heart).

Hotel Vis-A-Vis
Via della Chiusa, 28 Sestri Levante (GE)
Tel. (+39)0185-42.661-480.801
Fax (+39)0185-480.853
www.hotelvisavis.com

The IT List - here are some quick bits on what's hot in Italy:

Designer: Dolce & Gabbana

Television shows: Big Brother, Will & Grace, Sex and the City

Actresses: Monica Bellucci, Valeria Golino, Asia Argento

Actors: Raoul Bova, Kim Rossi Stuart, Stefano Corsi

Place to shop: Milan's Via de Spiga

Coffee: Illy

Drink: Martini

Music: Lounge

Women: Just like many in the States, the women we polled want to be "independent, sexy and fashionable."