LA CASA DE LAS SIRENAS
A Taste Of History In Mexico City By Zain Deane Mexico's Centro Histórico is a place of wonder. The great square, or Zócalo, marked by its enormous Mexican flag, forms a geographic and cultural nexus, and a short distance from here are some of the city's best points of interests and most important historic sites. The square fronts the Cathedral, the Palacio Nacional, where Diego Rivera's outstanding murals depicts the country's turbulent history from the Aztecs to the modern era. And two blocks away - holding its own quite nicely among the proud monuments to the past - is a small restaurant with its own story to tell. I'm not saying La Casa De Las Sirenas is as august a place as the Aztec Templo Mayor. Far from it; but the restaurant and bar is certainly a welcome oasis after a grueling morning or afternoon of active tourism. Tucked away in República de Guatemala, you could pass by the place a dozen times without noticing it among the city's controlled urban chaos. But you don't want to do that; you want to go in. The restaurant is set in a lovely, 17th Century colonial home, built with reclaimed stones from the pyramids, that was once home to priests of the nearby cathedral. Beautiful motifs, like the Caravaca Cross on the wall and the rich stained glass windows along the stairway, evoke its religious past. The bas-relief sculptures of mermaids that give the restaurant its name (Casa de las Sirenas means "House of the Mermaids") were added in the late 1990s and make for an interesting complement to the terra cotta architecture and the existing Catholic imprints. Today, the restaurant is divided into three main rooms. One could argue that the Salones Tequila, on the ground floor, is a true place of worship: in this cozy bar, you can acquaint yourself with over two hundred varieties of Mexico's national liquor. From here, take the stairs to the second level, where you'll find a second, larger bar and a pleasant dining indoor dining area. But the place to be when you come to eat here is the terrace. With lovely views of the cathedral, the national palace, and the Templo Mayor, this large, open-air dining area is worth it for the ambience alone. Fortunately, the food is just as good as the setting. In one corner of the terrace is a tortilla stand where a tireless and cheerful lady supplies a constant supply of fresh tortillas for you. (This should tell you right away that you're going to eat well.) The menu is classic Mexican, none of the nouveau cuisine that's popping up all over the city. This is also not a taco and burrito stand. Rather, this is the place to sample classics like traditional mole poblano (one of the best moles I ate in Mexico) and molcajete ambulante (a delicious mix of meat, cheese, and cactus leaves). Another favorite is the roast duck in tamarind sauce. If you want something light, try one of the restaurant's signature salads like the ensalada de la hortaliza (made with goat cheese, lettuce, spinach, avocado and basil). There's also a decent selection of hearty soups and stews. For dessert, try a local spin off a Spanish classic and order the flan de elote, which is made with corn. Combine the ambience, the view, and the outstanding food, and it's hard to beat La Casa de Las Sirenas for a true Mexican dining experience. Just like the ancient buildings around it, the restaurant celebrates the best of the city. La Casa de Las Sirenas República de Guatemala No. 32 Centro Histórico, México, D.F. (52) 5704-3345 www.lacasadelassirenas.com.mx |
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