CHIC A LA RUSSE
The Russians Are
Back In A Big Way
By Doha Challah
Evolving and constantly changing like the leaves of autumn, trends define fashion. And while the spring/summer season was all about soft cuts and deconstructed looks, the industry has a new theme this fall: Think Big. Everything is on a grander scale: big hair, heavy beading and expensive materials are paying homage to Siberian culture. Although fashion icons like Christian Lacroix and Oscar de la Renta are known for their edge, one glimpse at their fall collections offers a side of Moscow and St. Petersburg we never knew existed.
Throughout the Civil War in the Soviet Union and the ensuing Soviet regime, fashion was a foreign expression for Russians. During a time in which uniforms were forced on citizens and the only European imported clothes were matching pieces, women were not given the opportunity to show their individual style. Also, a legitimate fear of questioning and interrogation forced them to stay inclusive, leaving them no room to express their personalities through their looks. Alternatively, nobles who immigrated to European cities during those difficult times found themselves feeling hopeless, with no jobs to support themselves. All they knew was their distinctive heritage - the supremacy of being Russian. Their elegant style and lavish taste led them to work in the world of fashion.
Their use of embroidered velvets, fur and richly ornamented fabrics enticed the interest of wealthy clienteles. The Cold City is famous for its preference of grandiose framework, whether in its golden decorated architecture or the people's love of quintessential things in life. They influenced modern art, music, poetry and ballet. In many ways, they stirred people's cultural curiosity. Fashion historian Alexandre Vassiliev explored the influence of Russian culture in his book Beauty in Exile: Russian chic was at its peak in the West in the early twentieth century. Diaghilev's Ballets Russes had captivated Europe with oriental exotica, whetting the West's appetite for Slavic folk art and Siberian furs. Dancers Vaslav Nijinsky and Anna Pavlova took Parisian theater by storm, and Art Deco fashion illustrator Erté (whose Russian name was Roman Tytrov), was revolutionizing the look of fashion.
Today, these Eastern Europeans, while still nostalgic for the days of the glorious era, redefine a conservative classic. To them, more is better, showing off whatever they can afford. Whether you're rich or poor, dressing up is part of Russian character. It's all about being flashier, bolder and edgier. Could this be the result of the country's recent freedom of self expression? Or is it just the temperament of the culture? A friend, Donald Tsynman, once told me: "We Russians are enigmas, wrapped up in conundrums, surrounded by riddles." In other words, to understand why a Russian does what he does, you may actually have to be Russian.
Night partying in the land of vodka is like witnessing a fashion parade; unlike in the United States where the dominant style is casual and comfortable, these individuals are not afraid to take chances in fashion.
The frosty breeze does not limit them; in fact, their style strikes to the surface, every detail counts, and those heavy, furry winter coats add a glamorous touch to their ensembles. This ostentatious taste also explains their love for certain Italian designers, such as Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana, whose designs mirror a rich and vibrant image. Only recently have Russian Designers Masha Tsigal, Denis Simachev, Andrei Sharov and Konstantin Dudoladov, to mention a few, come into view with the world. Previously, their popularity extended to visitors and tourists looking for an exotic souvenir. More brilliant and intense talent is maturing in this industry. Fresh Art, for example, is a group of three designers. Their collections of shoes and apparel are as Russian as you can get and absolutely fascinating!
The interpretation of this attitude was phenomenal this season, transforming the boring manifestation of winter heavy clothes into chic, trendy, rebellious looks. Inspirations were just the beginning of what burst into imaginative creations, from a farm peasant to an aristocratic lady, designers took it to the next level, mixing the traditional "babushka" with extravagant mink, fox and even rabbit fur. This fall we're witnessing their introduction of the blouson, heavily ornamented coats, capes and fluffy hats and while this trend is ruling the runways today, forecasters predict that like the Russian know-how, it's here to stay.